At one o’clock we recommenced our journey, and at six in the evening reached our resting place for the night.
After a delay of two hours, a profuse supper was served up in regular courses, and concluded by a dessert of grapes, prunes, apples, pears, nuts and small sponge cakes. I was not a little surprised at their mode of cooking a cauliflower, which I had inquired for. After a great many “tout a l’heures”, it made its appearance boiled as soft as batter, and mixed up with oil, vinegar and pepper, like a salad!
The wine was excellent and circulated freely. Who, thought I, would not travel in a voiture, to live thus cheerily, and at so trifling an expense?
Our supper party consisted of nine or ten persons, not indeed of the most select kind, but I had no right to complain. With a view of avoiding trouble, and with some prospect of deriving gratification from the melange of characters I expected to meet, I had decided to put up with the general fare.
My companions appeared to enjoy their meal, and every additional glass evidently produced increased animation, as they talked louder and faster. They were, however, particularly attentive to myself, my want of sight probably exciting their sympathy.
At length, fatigued with the scene, I retired to my chamber, which was capacious and furnished with several beds. I had the pleasure of finding the one which had been selected for my repose good and commodious. But an important dilemma now presented itself. I took the fille-de-chambre by the hand in order to ascertain that she was carrying the candle away with her. This is a point I am always particular in attending to, as when the candle has been left behind, I have occasionally burnt my fingers, and once even made an extinguisher of my chin. I then made a motion to lock her out, so I might, according to the special clause in my agreement with the conducteur, appropriate the room entirely to myself.
I was surprised to find her as strenuously opposed to this measure as most of the fair sex, I have no doubt, would oppose an attempt to lock them in the room. It was useless endeavouring to comprehend her meaning and only by returning to the supper room did I learn that the room in question was intended for the accommodation of the whole party.
It is not easy to conceive the confusion which ensued as I evinced my steady determination not to pass the night by the side of the conducteur, or even the ladies of the party. I folded my arms, closed my eyelids and reclined in the posture of repose in a large easy chair in which I happened to be placed.
At this juncture, the bootmaker’s wife took me by the hand and conducted me to a single bedded room. After assisting in my arrangements and warming my bed, she permitted me to lock her out.
extract from The Narrative of a Journey through France, &c. (London, 1822) by James Holman FRS, pp.27-29, edited and read by Joe Rizzo Naudi.